THE CITY OF BETHLEHEM where Jesus was born is nothing like it was 2000 years ago, and nothing like what we think of today. Of course, being there on pilgrimage this past summer in July when the temperature was over 100 degrees is nothing like what we think of at Christmas with snow and cold temperatures.
We started our visit to Bethlehem by first visiting the Shepherd’s Field where tradition says the angels announced the Good News to those tending their flocks in the hills near the town. From that location you can easily view Bethlehem in the distance.
Two churches have been built on the site – originally in the 4th century by St. Helena (only the mosaic floor remains) and in the middle of the 20th century by the Franciscans.
The main basilica over the cave where Jesus was born is very large and has lamps hanging all around. The current building dates to the 6th century and emperor Justinian. To one side of the main basilica altar is the Western-style Church of St. Catherine.
Our group was given permission to have our own prayer service in a small chapel between the two churches. We prayed the Akathist to Jesus Christ, appropriate for his birthplace. This was arranged by our tour agency, but we had to obtain explicit permission from the Franciscans, Greek Orthodox, and Armenian Orthodox to video record our service. They are the principal Christian groups who serve as custodians of the Holy Land sites based on the “Status Quo” agreement among nine Christian groups dating for 250 years.
A steep staircase leads down into a small area in front of the cave where only 30-40 people can gather at one time. Inside the cave, there is a 14-point silver star on the marble floor marking the spot where Christ was born.
Now when I hear the story of the nativity of Jesus, or hear the numerous Christmas carols during this time of year, I’ll have a whole new appreciation of what the real Bethlehem looks like today, rather than the snow-covered stable of someone’s imagination.